Creating a very strong sense of naval adventure, this seasons Alexander McQueen collection explores the spirit of the journey. Sea voyage metaphors were apparent as the models resembled Victorian sailors and the theme of adventure seen through tattoos was a hint to the male habit of “mapping his body”. Doing a little soul searching figuratively and literally, the collection took a turn that many didn’t expect.
Led by Sarah Burton, the strong yet quiet force behind the label, who took over the reigns in 2010 the collection continues to exuded sharply defined elegance. Certainly the looks didn’t deliver the usual shock and awe of the previous McQueen shows however in many way, it was just as intriguing. Pieces included elongated captain’s coats, mended demin and frayed jackets as well as pajama-like jacquards. Each offering a pared down look from the brand’s usual extravagance by presenting a “kick-back sailor” style.
Other silhouettes consisted of ankle cropped trousers, knitwear in distressed nautical stripes, double breasted suit jackets and pea coats with cuffed tattoo sleeves. Shorts were triple pleated to add more volume and buttons were a focused design feature as found on the trouser cuffs. Tattoo motifs were used as prints as well as a collection of sea monsters, anchors and mermaids. The Spring 2016 collection featured utilitarian fabrics like cotton gabardine, terry cloth, poplin, cotton canvas and salt washed denim.
Even the footwear collection this season was toned down to a new level. The small, focused collection of white leather high top sneakers and oxfords were the perfect pairing, even with thick soles and a rubberized finish. Will the change in director for the label from a less exaggerated to the unexpectedly more, dare we say “basic” look work for them? Guess we’ll just have to and see.
Header image: Getty Images. Slideshow images: Fashion GPS.